Autumn is one of the most beautiful times of year in Freiburg. The grape harvest begins around the city, seasonal wine taverns open in the Kaiserstuhl and Tuniberg, and heartier dishes return to the menus.
But what do people traditionally eat in Freiburg and southern Baden in autumn?
From Neuer Süßer with onion tart to Baden-style Schäufele, here are five regional specialities that are perfect for the season.
1. Neuer Süßer with Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart)
Few pairings capture autumn in Baden’s wine region quite like Neuer Süßer and Zwiebelkuchen.
Neuer Süßer is freshly fermenting grape juice, available only for a short time during and after the grape harvest. It is traditionally served with warm Zwiebelkuchen: a savoury onion tart with bacon and an egg-and-cream filling.
In the Kaiserstuhl and Tuniberg in particular, this pairing is an essential part of the wine tavern season in September and October.
Try it here: Griestal-Strauße in Freiburg-Opfingen, Gerhart-Strauße in Jechtingen, Schlatthof Strauße in Freiburg
2. Lamb’s lettuce with bacon and Kracherle
Another classic of Baden’s autumn cooking is lamb’s lettuce with bacon and Kracherle.
“Kracherle” are small, crisp cubes of toasted bread — elsewhere, you would probably just call them croutons. Combined with fried bacon and a punchy dressing, they turn lamb’s lettuce into a surprisingly hearty starter.
Lamb’s lettuce is in season during the cooler months, which is why it appears on so many menus in southern Baden in autumn and winter.
Try it here: Vogelstrauße in Vogtsburg-Oberbergen in the Kaiserstuhl, Sulzbach Straussi in Heitersheim
3. Schupfnudeln with sauerkraut
As the evenings turn cooler, something a little heartier is welcome: Schupfnudeln with sauerkraut are just the thing.
These finger-shaped potato dumplings are pan-fried and served with sauerkraut. A topping of fried onions and bacon goes particularly well with them.
It is a simple dish, but exactly the kind of regional home cooking that makes a visit to a Straußenwirtschaft worthwhile.
Try it here: Zur Alten Küferei in Pfaffenweiler
The wine tavern at Weingut Hug even specifically describes its homemade “Schupfnudeln Pfaffenweiler Art”, served with wine-braised sauerkraut and an onion-and-bacon topping, as an autumn speciality.
4. Flammkuchen with bacon and onions
A classic combination: a thin, crisp base, cream, bacon and onions. Flammkuchen, also known as tarte flambée, is now an integral part of the food culture in the wine region around Freiburg.
Its roots lie mainly in neighbouring Alsace. But the culinary boundaries between Alsace and Baden have always been fluid, and today Flammkuchen appears on the menus of countless seasonal wine taverns in the Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg and Markgräflerland.
Naturally, it tastes best with a glass of white wine.
Try it here: Sonnenbrunnen-Strauße in Freiburg-Opfingen, Uf’m Buck in Bahlingen
5. Baden-style Schäufele with potato salad
To finish, here is another true Baden classic.
Schäufele is cured and smoked pork shoulder, a staple of traditional Baden cooking. It is often served with homemade potato salad — hearty, uncomplicated and perfect for a cool autumn evening.
If you are looking for a traditional Baden dish beyond Flammkuchen and onion tart, Schäufele is one to try at least once.
Try it here: Weingut Michel in Achkarren, Gretzmeier Strauße in Merdingen in the Tuniberg
Autumn in Freiburg is Straußenzeit
Of course, there is much more to discover: Bibeleskäs with Brägele (seasoned quark with fried potatoes), sausage salad, Käsespätzle (cheesy egg noodles), a Schlachtplatte meat platter, or simply fresh farmhouse bread with Black Forest smoked ham and a glass of Baden wine.
What makes it special is often less about a single dish than the whole experience: a few tables at a winery, wine from the surrounding vineyards and a small menu of regional food.
And many Straußenwirtschaften open for just a few weeks in spring and autumn.
Which seasonal wine taverns are open right now?
On Straußenzeit, you can find seasonal wine taverns around Freiburg, the Kaiserstuhl, Tuniberg and Markgräflerland, including current season dates and opening hours.